News / The Look Book

New York Fashion Week With Dick Page [BACKSTAGE Report Spring/Summer 2013]

New York Fashion Week With Dick Page - 1

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK WITH DICK PAGE

SPRING/SUMMER 2013

SEPTEMBER 8 BAND OF OUTSIDERS
SEPTEMBER 10 ZERO+MARIA CORNEJO
SEPTEMBER 11 MARC BY MARC JACOBS & NARCISO RODRIGUEZ
SEPTEMBER 12 MICHAEL KORS

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BEAUTY TRENDS

The Spring 2013 New York Collections showcased American designers’ fascination with artistry and craftsmanship as they looked to embellishment and new technologies in textile development to dramatize their clothing and seduce the customer. Intriguing textures and hand work included perforation, raw edges, crochet, fringe, wood paillettes, jet and pearl beads and the popular choice of studs and grommets for a modern accent. Keeping the tailoring fairly simple for the warm months of spring and summer, silhouettes ranged from fit and flare to loose and unencumbered, with boxy jackets floating lightly over garments. Palettes spanned the color spectrum from pale beach tones to vivid hues. Leather was seen at most shows despite the season, contrasted by transparent fabrics and delicate lace. Graphic motifs such as color blocking, patchwork, geometric shapes and specifically stripes made a frequent appearance, often in black and white.

Dick Page complemented the designer’s creative viewpoints with his own artistic expressions. This season the face and lips were kept subdued in order to draw attention to the eyes. Narciso Rodriguez and Band of Outsiders eyes were subtle and natural; for the 80s-inspired Marc by Marc Jacobs collection Dick turned to earthy tones for eyes that were “a little bit funky and homemade.” At Zero+Maria Cornejo, bold colors and photo prints influenced Dick’s playful eye color choices of pink and purple and at Michael Kors, the collection’s primary colors and linear graphics were reflected in a modern interpretation of the 60s with bright green and turquoise arcs artfully drawn to float above the lids. Dick’s insight into the collections and his versatile use of products enabled him to develop diverse looks for the Spring 2013 season.

Beauty Trends - 1

FACE

Preferring to let the youthful, healthy skin of the models shine through, Dick kept their faces simple and natural to support his philosophy of “just not getting in the way.”

At Band of Outsiders, Zero+Maria Corneo, Narciso Rodriguez and Marc by Marc Jacobs, he started with moisturizer and then sparingly applied foundation and concealer to correct imperfections. Dick incorporated Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Colors into his looks of the season; at Marc by Marc Jacobs and Zero+Maria Cornejo he added a light trace of Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) to the upper cheek and under the eye for a subtle highlight effect. He opted to mix Soft Beam Gold (BE206) with Bronzers at Narciso Rodriguez for a hint of color added to the contour of the cheekbone in a circular, sweeping motion.

For Michael Kors he warmed the skin up a half tone and then combined Soft Beam Gold (BE206) with High Beam White (WT905) for a dusting on the eyelid-upper cheekbone-under eye, creating a halo of lightness.

At Band of Outsiders Dick added a bold brushstroke “slash” of white (with a concealer lab sample) across the front of the cheeks in dramatic war paint fashion, referencing the Japanese futuristic novel, Battle Royale, from which the collection drew inspiration.

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EYES

The eyes were the headliners this season; the looks were inventive at Michael Kors and Zero+Maria Cornejo, muted at Marc by Marc Jacobs and subdued at Narciso Rodriguez and Band of Outsiders.

Michael Kors’ nod to California architecture and vivid Palm Springs hues were expressed in his collection’s primary colors and geometric shapes. Dick created a floating line of color on the plane above the lid for a linear, modern nod to the 60s. Using a soft fluff brush, he drew an arc above the lid in kelly green for brunettes and turquoise blue for blondes and redheads. A “trace of white for contrast” was applied to the lid, followed by Luminizing Satin Face Color in High Beam White (WT905) to stabilize the color. A light coat of Perfect Mascara Full Definition in Black (BK901) and added weight to the brows using Shimmering Cream Shadows finished the look.

The Zero+Maria Cornejo collection boasted geometric photo prints and vibrant colors. Dick selected pink and purple tones found in the textiles and combined them with white to create a “halo” around the eyes. Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) and High Beam White (WT905) were blended and applied along the upper cheek area and under the eye for an aura of light. Using a slightly damp fluff liner brush Dick applied the pink shade from the Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio in Tropicalia (YE406) along the upper lash line and halfway into the crease creating a “block” of color while leaving the inner eye area color free. Dick blended the pink shade with Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Caviar (BK912) to create a rich purple and applied it at the end of the upper lash line. The lower lash was lined with a white cream liner for an intentionally “imprecise” look.

The Narciso Rodriguez look conveyed simplicity and clarity to extend the collection’s message of purity. Dick Page kept the makeup “clean,” with a defined eyebrow and a soft shine around the eye. Dick used concealer lightly under the eye and then with a damp sponge, applied loose powder combined with Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) to softly highlight and brighten the under eye area. Dick applied a combination of Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable (BR709) and Caviar (BK912) to slightly darken brows and create natural weight and fullness. He used a small fluff brush to trace the upper and lower lash lines with Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment for a subtle sheen and then applied mascara densely to the upper lashes only.

No make up was applied to the eyes at Band of Outsiders but weight was added to the brows.

Shimmering Cream Eye Colors were used on eyes and brows. To balance the color and pattern-filled Marc by Marc Jacobs collection that included bright head wraps, Dick created a muted, ”semi-punky” look that was “a little bit rough and a little bit fun.” Using a soft fluff brush, Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Shadow in Sable (BR709) was blended from lash line to crease and diffused. It was then added along the lower lash line, followed by a “scrubby” line of Caviar (BK912). Caviar (BK912) was added to the upper lash line with weight at the outer edge for a wash of “mucky” color. Dick completed the look with a heavy coat of black mascara applied to upper lashes, followed by Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment on the lid center and lower lash line for a glossy sheen. Dick favors a strong brow and used combinations of Shimmering Cream Shadows in Meadow (BE204), Caviar (BK912), Leather (BR306) and Sable (BR709) to create custom blends. He explained, “I like the way creams look in eyebrows; it looks more real to me.”

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LIPS

Lips played more of a supporting role this season. Crucial yet subtle, Dick used a light hand in application at all shows. Dick wanted an invisible lip at Band of Outsiders and chose to mute natural lip color with a hint of foundation.

At Zero+Maria Cornejo Shiseido Lacquer Rouge in Nymph (RD305) was gently diffused and at Narciso Rodriguez, Dick applied “a trace of color” with Lacquer Rouge in Camel (BE306) using a finger pressing technique followed by blotting and reapplication.

Dick introduced two NEW colors: at Marc by Marc Jacobs “a touch” of Shiseido Perfect Rouge in Fantasia (RS745) was lightly tapped on by fingertip and for Michael Kors, Perfect Rouge in Vision (BE740) was applied with a soft fluff brush, blotted and then slightly diffused for “a little trace on the lips.”

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BEHIND THE SCENES

Trends for Spring 2013? I do not believe in trends. Trends are mathematics. They come together at the end of the season after everyone has added what they have seen – this amount of red lips or this amount of dark eyes or this amount of pale blues, for example. I feel like trends are material, physical things in terms of clothes and accessories. The makeup is always the same in material but it’s always new each time that you apply it. In that sense, it cannot really belong to an idea of a trend. You can make what you want and love what you want.

What is new for me for Spring 2013 is jumping into the lipstick idea again, the category of playing with lip colours. I’ve got a few different directions, probably more subtle colours than I have done in the past. I have still got some surprises but mostly, it is advancing the idea of sophistication with lip colour.

Apart from the lipstick, I would like to highlight the ones I am totally in love with and rely on all the time, which are the Luminizing Satin Face Colors, primarily in the highlight colours, which are the High Beam White and Soft Beam Gold. I use them to illuminate the complexion, prepare it for eye colour and highlight around the mouth, bridge of the nose, and cheekbones. Those are my favorite things.

Behind The Scenes with Dick Page - 2

Working with designers is so different. Sometimes they have a very concrete story. Michael Kors always has a narrative for me. Other designers are a bit more abstract. Sometimes Narciso Rodriguez will show me a piece of fabric and say, “What does that make you think of? Maria Cornejo will say, “I do not know. What do you think?” and we make something up. At Marc by Marc Jacobs it pretty much tells itself but the girls there always have an opinion and Marc Jacobs has an opinion so we play around. It changes season to season and you never know.

The process of working with the designers is always to meet and look at the clothes, look at the hair, work with the hair stylist, of course, and the stylist of the show if there is one, making sure you are all coming from the same direction. You really have to be aware of each other’s work. Sometimes if the hair is going somewhere exaggerated, I may or may not take a step back and reduce the impact of what I want to do, to just keep the balance because ultimately, we are there to tell a story about the clothes.

My most favorite moment during this Fashion Week was the end of this Fashion Week! It was just surviving it. I think that is pretty much my favorite moment all the time. Early in the week I think, “One down, four to go…” I think the end is always good because you have done your job.

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My least favorite part of Fashion Week is when you get overwhelmed by people backstage. You have so many people trying to get information from you that you get to the tipping point where it’s challenging to do your job. That is when I wish everyone would just go home and look at the stories the next day in the papers or online!

Memorable or funny moments backstage – there is plenty of stuff. There is always something coming and going. There is always some girl arriving, heartbroken, crying, with her hair on fire or something similar. When the girl steps out on the runway, nothing bad has ever happened in the history of the world. It is just the brand new thing you see right in front of you.

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BAND OF OUTSIDERS

Scott had the idea of something a bit aggressive. The stylist for the show mentioned they had watched the film, Battle Royale.

This collection is nothing like as insane as the film but I thought, “preparedness, make the girls look a bit aggressive, do a very simple gesture … stripes of heavy cream concealer across the cheekbones and very little else. Fill in the eyebrow a little bit.

Just make sure you have a well-prepared teenage army to charge down the runway into this crazy set they built.

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GET THE LOOK

The Spring 2013 Boy by Band of Outsiders collection drew inspiration from Battle Royale, the Japanese futuristic novel of survival. Designer Scott Sternberg’s effortless, feminine collection subtly hinted at military and Japanese references. Dick kept the face natural with toned down lips and slight weight added to the brows. To illustrate the conflict and struggle that unfolds in the story, Dick drew a bold brushstroke “slash” of white across the front of the cheeks in dramatic war paint fashion (using a concealer lab sample).

The face was moisturized followed by a very light wash of foundation and a minimal amount of concealer to correct imperfections. No powder or cheek color was used. Dick added a wide stroke of white (with a concealer lab sample) horizontally across the front of the cheek, lifting the outer edge slightly in line with the contour of the face. The edges retained the hand-drawn stroke lines for an impromptu effect.

Some weight was added to the brows with Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable (BR 709), Leather (BR 306) or Caviar (BK912) to enhance the models’ natural brow shades.

Natural lip color was minimized with a touch of foundation, followed by a light application of Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment.

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FACE
Shiseido foundation and concealer

EYEBROWS
Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable (BR709),
Leather (BR306) or Caviar (BK912)

CHEEKS
A concealer lab sample

LIPS
Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment

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THE DESIGNER

California native Scott Sternberg redirected his vocational path from the talent agent realm toward fashion and design when he launched the menswear label Band of Outsiders in 2004. Three years later he branched into womenswear with Boy and later expanded with a more feminine womenswear line, Girl. His tailored polo shirt collection is wittily named, This is Not a Polo. The Band of Outsiders collections hint at ivy league-traditional with a stylish yet carefree point of view. Subtle sophistication is evident in the tailoring which offers a casually flattering fit that is ideal for a modern lifestyle. Sternberg remains based in Los Angeles and his designs suggest a west coast beach-centric attitude of understated elegance. His unconventional approach to all aspects of his business has generated attention from film industry insiders and fashion peers alike. In 2008 he was recipient of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) Swarowski Award for Menswear and in the years following has honed his craft to create increasingly thought-provoking collections.

SPRING 2013 COLLECTION

Scott Sternberg’s cultural reference for the Band of Outsiders Spring 2013 season was Battle Royale, the controversial Japanese novel by Koushun Takami that reached a global audience through manga and film adaptations. The story’s theme of a fight-to-survive competition was reflected in the military and Japanese design touches found in the collection. Sternberg has the ability to present outfits that appear to be put together without deliberation for results that are organically cool. The palette started with army green, transitioned to teal and moved into blues and blacks before ending with pastel-accented whites. Uniforms were alluded to with olive green, military braiding, drawstring pant hems and anoraks. Homespun elements included delicate open-weave macramé tops, skirts and dresses, ethnic blanket patterns and watery Japanese shibori tie-dye prints such as fanciful wave motifs. Quiet sensuality was conveyed in bandeaus over low-slung pants and skirts that revealed the midriff and were topped with both cropped and long, unstructured jackets. The closing group of flowing white dresses were detailed with brushstrokes of delicate pink, green and blue.

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ZERO+MARIA CORNEJO

The look was a reflection on what Maria had done with her prints and her patterns. Through the passage of the clothes, there were a lot of different looks and, as in any show, you have to accommodate all of them.

So it was to compliment them.

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GET THE LOOK

The free-spirited, relaxed chic Zero+Maria Cornejo collection ranged from neutral monotones to colorful, bold graphic prints derived from the designer’s mobile phone photographs of agricultural crop circles. Drawing on some of the vivid tones found in the textiles, Dick incorporated pink and purple into his “imprecise” look that suggested a “halo” of color around the eyes.

After moisturizing the skin, a wash of foundation was added to correct imperfections followed by a light dusting of translucent powder. Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) and High Beam White (WT905) were combined and applied along the upper cheek and under eye areas to create a halo of lightness. Darker skin tones received a bit more Soft Beam Gold (BE206). Asking models to smile, Dick applied Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) mixed with Tea Rose (RS302) below the apple of the cheek, blended in a gentle, downward motion.

Using a slightly damp fluff liner brush Dick applied the pink shade from Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio in Tropicalia (YE406) along the upper lash line and halfway into the crease creating a “block” of color. The inner eye area was kept free of color. Dick blended Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Caviar (BK912) with the pink shade to create a rich purple and applied it at the end of the upper lash line as a “lump of color.” A white cream liner applied along the lower lash and water lines brightened the eyes. Brows were kept natural.

Lips were treated with a touch of lip balm, followed by a diffused application of Lacquer Rouge in Nymph (RD305).

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FACE
Shiseido foundation
Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) and High Beam White (WT905)

EYE
Pink shade from the Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio in Tropicalia (YE406)
Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Caviar (BK912)
A white cream eyeliner
*Alternative: Corrector Pencil in Light (1)

LIPS
Lacquer Rouge in Nymph (RD305)

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THE DESIGNER

Maria Cornejo symbolizes the global designer of the twenty-first century. Cornejo was born in Chile and moved to England as a child. She was partner in the innovative British clothing label Richmond Cornejo and later branched out to design opportunities in Paris, Milan and Tokyo. She currently resides in New York as a new citizen of the United States with her two children and husband, photographer Mark Borthwick. Zero+Maria Cornejo was established in 1998 as a retail store and atelier in New York’s downtown Nolita district, adopting the name “zero” for it’s symbolism of a pure point of departure. Cornejo’s designs are architectural, minimalist and often integrate abstract textiles derived from her photographs, which alludes to her artistic background in graphic design. She freely experiments with volume and geometry, incorporating unconventional angles into her bias cut garments. Cornejo was recipient of the Smithsonian Institute Cooper Hewitt National Design Award in 2006 and her creations are regularly sought after for inclusion in museum exhibitions. In addition to her Greenwich Village and enlarged Nolita retail stores in New York, Cornejo expanded to the west coast with her first shop in Los Angeles on Melrose Avenue.

SPRING 2013 COLLECTION

The Spring 2013 collection took on a sophisticated tone as the Zero+Maria Cornejo label continues to evolve from conceptual to understated luxury. The palette transitioned from dark to light; black and purple outfits opened the show followed by bold graphics in black, white, pink and blue, and concluded with taupe, gray, ivory and white. Focus was directed to the bodice with bandeaus, corsets, vests, shrugs and boleros, and silhouettes were both slim and loose but never constricted. Cornejo is known to embrace sculptural shapes and this season her circular cut hems glided from knee length in front to longer in the back, allowing the skirts and dresses to float around the body. An artistic punch was delivered with oversized, abstract interpretations of the designer’s mobile phone photographs shown in both black and white and colored with vivid pink and purple. Zippers were the fastener of choice, adding a utilitarian element to the feminine clothes, and bags made of matching textiles coordinated to complete the looks.

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MARC BY MARC JACOBS

The collection was a riot of colours. We all had a bit of an 80s flashback, like the head wraps, the bright prints, jumpsuits, binding and the scarves! I thought about how to make that look real for the runway. The look was not really about the colour; it was really just to look like a girl who would inhabit these clothes.

I should know all about the 80s. It is my decade!

Simplicity, a little bit scruffy, a little bit cool, nothing too complicated, no sharp edges, nothing to get in the way of the girls looking cool and pretty.

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GET THE LOOK

The Marc by Marc Jacobs collection embraced playful color and layered, mixed prints that extended to face-framing head wraps and scarves. Alluding to the 80s club scene that the collection was based on, Dick created a soft face and smudged “semi-punky” eyes that he wanted to “look a little bit rough and a little bit fun.”

Following moisturizer, a trace of foundation was applied with a soft fluff brush to correct imperfections. Dick added a light trace of Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) to the upper cheek and under eye areas to create a subtle tone. To fair tone models High Beam White (WT905) was combined with Soft Beam Gold (BE206). No powder or blush was used.

Dick created “semi-punky tough eyes that he described as, “a little bit scruffy and homemade.” Using a soft fluff brush Dick applied the Shimmering Cream Shadow in Sable (BR709) from lash line to crease, then blended and diffused at the crease for an undefined line. Application continued along the entire lower lash line toward the inner corner. Shimmering Cream Shadow in Caviar (BK912) was added deep into the upper lash line with denser weight at the outer end. Color continued close along the lower lash line in a scrubby line and toward the inner eye, blended and diffused into the Sable. Slightly more Caviar was added at the outer end, blended and diffused into the Sable on the lid to create a wash of tone for a “mucky” smudged look. A heavy coat of Perfect Mascara Full Definition in Black (BK901) was brushed onto upper lashes only. The look was finished with Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment on the center lid and along the lower lash line for a glossy sheen. Fair tone models received slightly more Caviar and dark tone models received a Leather (BR306) variation. Dick added subtle weight to the brows using custom blends of Shimmering Cream Eye Shadows in Meadow (BE204), Caviar (BK912), Leather (BR306) and Sable (BR709).

Feeling the lip color “should look easy,” Dick added a touch of NEW Perfect Rouge in Fantasia (RS745) that was lightly “tapped” onto the lips by fingertip and diffused.

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FACE
Shiseido foundation
Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) and High Beam White (WT905)

EYES
Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable (BR709) and Caviar (BK912)
Perfect Mascara Full Definition in Black (BK901)
Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment

LIPS
Perfect Rouge in Fantasia (RS745)

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THE DESIGNER

Marc Jacobs lives a transcontinental life but is firmly rooted in his native New York. He embarked on his fashion studies at the High School of Art & Design and continued at Parsons the New School for Design in NYC. He launched the Marc Jacobs label with his business partner Robert Duffy in 1986 and in 1997 created the first clothing line for Louis Vuitton, where he maintains his ongoing role as Creative Director of the French brand. Jacobs reached out to a younger market with the launch of the Marc by Marc Jacobs line in 2001and one decade later he operates over 200 stores in 80 countries worldwide. Balancing his multiple roles and responsibilities on two continents, Jacobs continues to produce groundbreaking, trendsetting collections in artistic presentations that are highly anticipated each season. An avid art collector who is passionate about and motivated by the world of art and artists, Jacobs is recognized as an innovator who forges his own design path when creating his collections. Jacobs has received seven CFDA Awards in Womenswear, Menswear, International and Accessories categories and the French Chevaliers of the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres award. Jacobs resides in New York and Paris.

SPRING 2013 COLLECTION

Marc Jacobs turned to the 80s for his Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2013 inspiration, in particular the influential style of the decade’s music bands such as Culture Club and The Clash. Young people of that period synthesized disparate cultural references and integrated them into their everyday dress. Popular trends at the time included gypsy scarves tied around the head, neck and waist, layering, voluminous shirts and pants and carefree combinations of colors and prints. Marc Jacobs interpreted these looks with fresh, cheerful, bright hues of pink, orange, red and blue seen in pattern mixes of checks, plaids, stripes, florals, swirls, skulls, crazy-quilt patchwork and graffiti that spelled out the brand name. Sun-washed colors included pale blue, beige, taupe, gray, ivory and crisp white and texture was introduced with intarsia knits and tweeds. Chunky anklets worn with colorful and patterned Mary-Jane platforms, Japanese zori sandals and oxfords gave the collection an eclectic, carefree attitude.

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NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

Last season we had a total colour frenzy. This season we all stepped back a bit and Narciso came forward with his beautiful tailoring, line, architecture and details. We thought it would be nice to do something very clean.

Ideally, you should not be aware of any makeup technique in this look. The girls should just look great and strong in the clothes.

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GET THE LOOK

The Narciso Rodriguez aesthetic is one of chic simplicity expressed through effortless tailoring and flowing bias lines that convey an understated sensuality. Balancing a Spring 2013 collection filled with color, Dick expanded upon the concept of purity by keeping the makeup “just as simple as possible.” He focused on “real looking” skin and defined brows that were enhanced with soft shine around the eyes and subtle lips.

Dick moisturized the face and applied foundation “as lightly as possible” to correct imperfections and allow the skin to appear “as real as possible.” A light dusting of loose powder was added to the entire face minus the eye area for an effect that was “matte and soft but not powdery.” Dick used a damp sponge to lightly apply loose powder mixed with Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) under the eye to brighten yet not overpower. On fair tone models High Beam White (WT905) was used in place of Soft Beam Gold (BE206). Using a blush brush Dick selected Bronzers in Light (1), Medium (2) or Dark (3) to mix with Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) and added “a really soft contour under the cheekbone” in a circular, sweeping motion.

Dick used concealer lightly under the eye and then with a damp sponge, applied loose powder combined with Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) to delicately highlight and brighten the under eye area. He traced the upper and lower lash lines with Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment using a small, fluffy brush to add a subtle sheen and then applied Perfect Mascara Full Definition in Black (BK901) densely to the upper lashes only. Dick wanted the brows to “appear weighted, full, and slightly darker than the natural brow but not black or too dark.” He brushed the brows down to find the natural line, applied a combination of Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable (BR709) and Caviar (BK912) with a small stiff brush and then brushed the brows back up.

Once lips were moisturized, Dick applied Lacquer Rouge in Camel (BE306) with a finger-pressing technique, then blotted and reapplied for a naturally textured finish.

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FACE
Shiseido foundation and concealer
Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) and High Beam White (WT905)
Bronzers in Light (1), Medium (2) or Dark (3)

EYEBROWS
Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable (BR709), Leather (BR306) or Caviar (BK912)

EYES
Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment
Perfect Mascara Full Definition in Black (BK901)

LIPS
Lacquer Rouge in Camel (BE306)

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THE DESIGNER

An east coast native, Narciso Rodriguez majored in fashion at Parsons the New School for Design before embarking on his design career on Seventh Avenue in New York City. Rodriguez began his profession working at Anne Klein with designer, Donna Karan and continued on to design at Calvin Klein and Tse in the United States and Cerruti and Loewe in Europe. He launched his own label in 1997 and was awarded the CFDA Perry Ellis Award for Womenswear, which honors emerging designers in 2002, followed by the Womenswear Designer of the Year Award one year later. A tailor of uncompromising standards, Rodriguez constructs his garments like a master draftsman, employing darts and seams with impeccable precision to create clothing that is minimalist, graceful and feminine. He is keenly inspired by art and photography and often manipulates and collages images that evolve into innovative textiles, applications and finishes. A new line of footwear and handbags seamlessly compliment his collections. Women of style from the White House to the red carpet favor the refined elegance instilled in Narciso Rodriguez designs.

SPRING 2013 COLLECTION

Narciso Rodriguez explored the delicate bias work of French couturier Vionnet and opted to “apply similar techniques to a more constructivist idea.” Rodriguez masterfully balances rigorous construction with dreamlike fluidity. His Spring 2013 show opened with tailored pieces that featured a deep V-shape that sliced the front panels of dresses and tops to reveal bandeaus and skin underneath. The V extended to cutout keyholes and hemlines, reinforcing the bias line theory so closely associated with the brand. Slim dresses and pants were paired with chic sharp-shouldered slouchy jackets. Rodriguez chose rich colors such as blood orange, marigold, brick, magenta, teal and moss green to supplement his trademark black and white. Loosely draped tees were embellished with wood pailettes and botanical embroidery that created a three-dimensional effect. Bold blocks of pink and fuschia adorned white ethereal bias slip dresses for a dramatic finale.

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MICHAEL KORS

Michael was talking about the 90s influence but there is a 60s feeling as well in some of the straightness, sharpness and graphic lines. He talked about colour on the eye – to do it in a way that was not too obvious or glammy.

We deiced to do a floating line detail and chose blue for the blondes and green for the brunettes and darker girls. It was all about this floating line detail.

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GET THE LOOK

For Spring 2013, Michael Kors referenced California’s mid-century architecture and Palm Springs hues in his palette of bold primary colors and graphic motifs expressed in stripes and color blocking. Dick carried through the collection’s modern spin on the 60s with playfully artistic lines of bright blue and green positioned to float dramatically above the lids.

Faces were moisturized and warmed up a half tone from the models’ natural shades. The skin was kept very matte, especially under the cheekbone and under eye areas.

The lids were “blanked out” with foundation and then transluscent powder was dusted on to set. Dick then applied a combination of Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) and High Beam White (WT905) to create lightness on the eyelid, upper cheekbone and under eye areas and to stabilize the lids for the cream color. Using a soft fluff brush Dick drew a decorative “floating” graphic arc on the plane above the lids in custom colors: turquoise blue for blondes and redheads and kelly green for brunettes. Shiseido product options are Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio in Punky Blues (BL310) and Jungle (GR305). A “trace of white for contrast” was applied and diffused along the upper lash line followed by a touch of Luminizing Satin Face Color in High Beam White (WT905) to stabilize the color. A light coat of Perfect Mascara Full Definition in Black (BK901) went on upper lashes and brows received added weight with Shimmering Cream Eye Colors.

Dick used a soft fluff brush to apply NEW Perfect Rouge in Vision (BE740), “a soft beigey mauve,” which was then blotted and slightly diffused for lips that had just “a trace of color.”

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FACE
Shiseido foundation
Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206) and High Beam White (WT905)
Bronzers in Light (1), Medium (2) or Dark (3)

EYEBROWS
Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable (BR709), Leather (BR306) or Caviar (BK912)

EYES
Luminizing Satin Face Color in High Beam White (WT905)
Perfect Mascara Full Definition in Black (BK901)
Custom cream shadow in turquoise blue and kelly green
*Alternatives: Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio in Punky Blues (BL310) and Jungle (GR305)
A white cream eyeliner
*Alternative: Corrector Pencil in Light (1)

LIPS
Perfect Rouge in Vision (BE740)

Michael Kors - 7

THE DESIGNER

Michael Kors personifies the fast pace of New York with his exuberate personality and modern designs. Kors was introduced to design at a young age via his mother’s early modeling career and focused his own creative interests on design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC. He established his business in 1981 at the age of twenty-two. While helming his own company, Kors was also Creative Director at the French label Celine from 1997 until 2003. In 2002 he launched his menswear line followed by his secondary womenswear labels, Michael and Kors in 2004. His expertise and wit as a regular panelist on the design competition television series, Project Runway since 2004 has turned Michael Kors into a household name. Listed on the New York Stock Exchange in 2011, Kors holds the title of Chief Creative Officer in Michael Kors Holdings, the newly public company which operates over 200 retail stores in 37 countries worldwide. Kors is steadfastly loyal to his philosophy of producing polished American sportswear. His classic, sophisticated garments utilize luxurious materials and finishes but are never ostentatious. Kors has been honored with CFDA Awards in both Womenswear and Menswear categories and in 2010 became the youngest recipient of the Lifetime Achievement Award.

SPRING 2013 COLLECTION

Michael Kors looked to the California landscape of mid-century architectural masterpieces by Neutra, Saarinen and Lautner as a springboard for his Spring 2013 collection. Graphic elements were present throughout in clean lines, bold linear stripes and checks, color blocking, and circular pockets, grommets and belt buckles. Kors turned to crisp uplifting Palm Springs colors of vivid yellow, red, blue and green that he described as “optimistic glamour.” They were tempered with white, khaki, navy and black. The geometry and monotone dressing that extended to the accessories was reminiscent of the 60s but never veered toward retro. Instead, the collection was modern, polished and cosmopolitan. The show concluded with slender black column gowns that revealed skin through strategically placed cutouts. Before models exited onto the runway they faced a message board with a note from the designer that read, “You are BOLD, CONFIDENT and exude CHIC. Walk STRAIGHT and STRONG and remember, you are the envy of everyone in the room!” That summed it up.

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This season, I bring you yet another Beauty Report featuring the Spring/Summer 2013 runway looks by Dick Page, Shiseido.

I love trend reports and find them very inspiring. And from this set, my favourites belong to the pink lids seen on ZERO+MARIA CORNEJO and shocking green/blue graphic lines seen on MICHAEL KORS. Of course, those dazzling eyes from MARC BY MARC JACOBS are stunning too.

Which looks captured your heart from this set?

Thank you for looking.

4 thoughts on “New York Fashion Week With Dick Page [BACKSTAGE Report Spring/Summer 2013]

  1. Love Marc Jacobs’ makeup as well as his collection. Others are just…meh…boring. Trying to be interesting, but not to me. Especially not with that funny blue and green lines LOL.

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