12 PRIVATE COLLECTION FRAGRANCES INSPIRED BY HERITAGE, RAW INGREDIENTS AND IMAGINARY WORLDS
François Demachy likes to draw energy and inspiration from Mediterranean climates where the sea, land and sun all meet.
He is particularly fond of the Italian cities of Syracuse and Siena, and is strongly attracted to both the Italian and Japanese cultures. He is a connoisseur of vintage cars as well as a passionate diver.
“We perfumers are writer-composers and performers! We converse in a language that many understand but few can speak. I transform what I feel into a musical score of scented notes.”
Intense and sensual, Patchouli is an essential Dior ingredient, and has been so since the New Look revolution in 1947.
Olfactory Description: A sulfurous and refined Patchouli sublimated by the contrast of vibrant top notes and the assertive sensuality of a woody dry down. Patchouli essence has a rich and complex perfume. Its tropical origins provide it with earthy, humus notes. Woody and enveloping, it also reveals hints of spice and camphor.
Key Ingredient – Indonesian Patchouli: Originating in Southeast Asia, and especially in Indonesia and Malaysia, Patchouli arrived in Europe at the time of the Crusades with the importation of silk and cashmere. Patchouli leaves were used to wrap fabrics, protecting them from deterioration. Patchouli is a small shade-loving shrub whose branches are harvested during the rainy season. The fresh leaves have no scent. It is only once dried that they release their distinctive fragrance.
Extraction Process: Patchouli essence is obtained by distilling the dried leaves using water vapor. It takes 100-120 kg of leaves to obtain 1 kg of essence.
A heady creation, a vision of a modern, enchanting Orient.
Olfactory Description: Radiant and caressing, Rose mingles with the woody power of Oud and the amber notes of Labdanum absolute.
Key Ingredient – Cistus Ladanifer from Spain: Labdanum absolute is obtained from a small shrub called Cistus Ladanifer, which can be found growing around the Mediterranean basin. To protect the plant from the heat and the sun, the leaves of Cistus Ladanifer secrete a fragranced resin known as Labdanum.
Extraction Process: Boiling the branches in water releases a golden foam to the surface. When dried, this turns into a resin. It is then treated using volatile solvents to produce Labdanum absolute. The scent of Labdanum absolute is particularly powerful and is sweeter and balmier than Ambergris. In order to obtain slightly leathery nuances, Labdanum absolute is heated to very high temperatures in a process known as “cracking”.
Milly-la-Forêt is the country house where Christian Dior used to rest after his extremely demanding fashion catwalks.
Olfactory Description: The White Musk created by Dior offers sensual sweet and clean notes that also offer hints that are sometimes fruity, woody and even floral. The fragrance is like a springtime stroll in the woods at dawn with a light breeze: a fresh and cotton-like fragrance.
Key Ingredient – White Musk: Musk is the name originally given to a secretion of the Himalayan Musk deer, from a gland located between the animal’s hind legs. For ethical reasons, natural Musk is no longer used, and has been replaced by synthetic products, known as “White Musks” due to their white crystalline appearance.
Extraction Process: White Musks are not extracted from raw material. They are created in the laboratory.
From the very beginning, Christian Dior wanted to invite woman to sumptuous parties. This love dated back to his childhood in Granville, marked by Belle Époque balls and carnivals. His spectacular dresses transformed women into sublime heroines, adorned with meters of tulle and embroidered silk.
Olfactory Description: A luminous floral composition, a light-filled shower of Jasmine petals. Jasminum Grandiflorum has a rich, subtle, sensual and caressing fragrance. It is more petal and more animal than Jasminum Sambac. It also has notes of tea.
Key Ingredient – Grasse Jasmine: Jasmine is one of the most frequently used flowers in perfumery. Jasminum Grandiflorum flowers from the end of July until the end of October. The nighttime-blossoming flowers are harvested before dawn. The Domaine de Manon’s entire harvest in Grasse is exclusively used by Dior.
Extraction Process: The first stage involves extracting the perfume of flowers to obtain a concrete. The second phase involves transforming this concrete into a liquid absolute. Seven million flowers are required to produce 1 kg of Jasmine absolute.
Inspired by Château de la Colle Noire, the Couturier’s residence in Provence.
Olfactory Description: A combination of a mysterious Vanilla with a fresh and clear Lavender at night-time Provence. The scent of Lavender essence reveals fresh and floral facets but is also sweeter and features more tobacco notes.
Key Ingredient – Lavender from the Lubéron: Lavender was used as far back as Roman times to store laundry and perfume baths. In Provence, its use in perfumes dates back to the Middle Ages. It is cultivated at between 600- 1,400m above sea level.The harvest takes place between July and August, before the flowers are completely open in order for the sprigs of Lavender to preserve all their fragrance.
Extraction Process: Lavender essence is obtained by distilling the freshly-cut flowers using water vapor.
Christian Dior spent his childhood in Granville, Normandy. Built on a cliff overlooking the English Channel on one side, it is surrounded by trees on the other.
Olfactory Description: Imagine the scent of fresh Pine trees rustled by the wind; a mix of sharp sea breeze with zingy and spicy notes of Pine needles warmed by sunshine… Pine absolute has an aromatic scent that is reminiscent of Rosemary. It is slightly spicy with almostsmoky hints of resin.
Key Ingredient – Inland Pine: This mountain tree grows right across Europe, Asia and Scandinavia. The twigs and needles are used in perfumery. Dior uses Pines from the Grasse hinterland for their balanced and harmonious fragrance profiles.
Extraction Process: Pine absolute is obtained through extraction of the twigs and needles.
A cologne inspired by the Royal Courts of the XVIIIth century, this reflects both the classicism and the modernity of Dior.
Olfactory Description: The fragrance of Bergamot essence combines the sparkle of Citrus with the sweet, floral notes that recall Earl Grey Tea. One can also discern hints of Pepper.
Key Ingredient – Reggio Calabria Bergamot: A royal Bergamot, chosen for its pure essence, which revives the sparkling freshness of traditional cologne. The Bergamot is the fruit of the Bergamot Tree, mainly cultivated in Calabria where it was introduced during the 16th century.
Extraction Process: Selected Bergamot undergoes very gentle processing that allows it to retain all its aromas in Cologne Royale. Bergamot essence is obtained by cold pressing the peel. This process is only used for citrus fruits as these fruits’ essential oils are contained in tiny pockets in their skins.
A veritable perfumer’s fantasy…
Olfactory Description: A powdery Iris wrapped in Incense, like an intimate caress on the skin. The scent of Iris absolute is very complex; it is powdery, woody, dry, sweet, slightly green and fruity.
Key Ingredient – Iris Florentina: Iris absolute is one of the most precious products in the perfumer’s palette. Originally from the Far East and introduced to the Mediterranean, Iris made its debut in the world of perfumery in the Renaissance when it was used for perfuming leather gloves. Only the roots of the flower are used.
Extraction Process: It takes three years for the rhizomes to dry and to develop the particular fragrance of the absolute. The rhizomes are crushed and distilled using water vapor to obtain a paste known as “Iris butter”. Extraction is then used to produce the Iris absolute.
NEW LOOK 1947
February 12, 1947: there was a charge in the air at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris when Christian Dior held his first fashion show. Flower-women, vibrant colors – the Couturier changed the Fashion world. Carmel Snow, the chief editor of Harper’s Bazaar exclaimed: “It’s a New Look!” giving it the name that would forever mark the inimitable style of Dior.
Olfactory Description: The fragrance of Tuberose absolute is one of the most heady and captivating imaginable. It offers scents of Jasmine and Orange thanks to the fragrance molecules the Tuberose shares with those plants. It also has fruity, Coconut notes.
Key Ingredient – Indian Tuberose: The Tuberose originated in Central America and arrived in Europe around 1600. It is now cultivated in India and is harvested in July and August. Tuberoses flower only once but they are able to renew their fragrance molecules for 48 hours after harvest. This strange ability gives the Tuberose an even more captivating aura.
Extraction Process: The first stage involves extracting the perfume of flowers to obtain a concrete. The second phase involves transforming this concrete into a liquid absolute.
François Demachy travelled around Asia and brought back a rare and extremely noble wood: the Oud Wood.
Olfactory Description: An intense and deep woody leather scent built around Oud Wood, a rare and precious wood with hints of sharp and animalic-like smoky scents, which grows warmer when in contact with skin.
Key Ingredient – Indonesian Oud Wood: More precious than gold, Agar wood is incredibly rare. For almost 2,000 years, it has been used in both Asia and the Middle East, valued both as a pure oil worn as a fragrance and as an incense for burning. It comes from a Southeast Asian species of tree, which, when infected with a type of mold, secretes a resin to protect itself. This results in a resin embedded heartwood called Oud.
Extraction Process: Oud is distilled using water vapor to extract the essential oil.
A mysterious fragrance inspired by the splendorous world of the 18th century…
Olfactory Description: A mystical Rose wrapped in precious Amber. The warm and embracing light of Amber notes woven into a veil of sensuality around a glowing Rose. Tincture of Ambergris reveals extremely complex notes: Slightly animal, marine, floral, warm and sweet.
Key Ingredient – Ambergris from New Zealand: Ambergris, not to be confused with Yellow Amber, which is a fossilized resin, is secreted by the sperm whale. This “Amber” is naturally secreted by the whales and floats on the surface of the sea, before finally being washed up on the beach.
Extraction Process: When Ambergris is secreted by the sperm whale, its odor is unpleasant and it is thus unusable. It is only after being carried by the ocean currents and sundried over several years that this precious material takes on its extraordinary fragrance.
Christian Dior loved women and loved to be surrounded by them. When he arrived in Paris, he met the woman who will not only be his muse but also his counselor: Mitzah Bricard, a woman of extreme sensuality.
Olfactory Description: A mysterious and sensual Oriental Couture Rose. Mitzah is like a stole that luxuriantly drapes the shoulders, like warm golden Rose Honey. Surprising and full of contrasts, Incense oscillates between hot and cold, woody and dry but also green, it can even offer hints of Lemon. It is also spicy with peppery notes.
Key Ingredient – Somali Incense: One of perfumery’s most ancient raw materials, Somali Incense has been used for almost 5,000 years. In antiquity, it was considered to be more precious than gold. This highlyfragrant resin can be found growing wild around the Red Sea.
Extraction Process: Two types of Incense are used: the Incense resinoid (absolute) obtained by extraction and Incense essence that is distilled.
Each bottle of DIOR La Collection Privée retails at S$285 for 125ml. Available exclusively at DIOR TANGS Orchard.
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